Ellis Faas

Ellis Faas is arguably one of the biggest make-up artist of our time and her videos implore the use of makeup in our generation and the meanings and use behind it.

In this video particularly as you may be able to tell from the name identity revealed it seems that she is trying to portray the idea that make-up is a mask. she has gone about this in a very tribal way and you can defiantly see this theme throughout the make-up looks. this may seem to be bait of a confusing statement to be making as the tribal markings may be seen as someones identity but she is also describing it as a mask. this is quite controversial as on one hand it may be perceived as saying that peoples tribal markings should be masked.

you can clearly see that her make-up skills are being showcased in a very unique way i think that it is very captivating but I'm not entirely sure as to what she is trying to send as a message through this video.

3 brush challenge - danielles make-up on me

Unfortunately for the three brush challenge i was quite literally part of a bigger picture. I became Daniella's model for the duration of the lesson in order to let her complete her rather amazing design. it had taken longer than expected and as the design when past my neck and onto my chest area it took longer than expected.

I was amazed to see that not only did she not use above three but she did almost the entire look with one brush, using quick short brush strokes of supra colour all over my face.

 I think it is quite easy to say that she did a good job.

Colour context and colour wheel

colour wheel 

I am fortunate enough to have a basic understanding of the colour wheel already as i have done many creative courses such as art and design that also require this knowledge. when painting any canvas including the face it is imperative to understand which colour complement and contrast against one and other. this is especially important when contouring the face, and doing bright avenge grade style makeup.

as you can see in the above basic chart each primary colour has another complimentary primary colour to match. good example of this is purple and yellow a mixture you may not expect to go well together and it might not feature that frequently in your wardrobe but when blended and used subtly on the face it can create some really aesthetically pleasing looks.

colour theory isn't just used in make-up and art though we see this every day in small things like nature. pansies naturally sprout yellow and purple from the same flower and they are complimented on a daily basis for their beauty.

TIMED ASSESSMENT - IN THE ROLL OF THE DESIGNER

So being the designer on the day all I have to do is sit back and look pretty. Thats simple enough but I can't help but stress any way even though I'm not even doing the make-up. but as soon as chelsea begun working I relaxed.

I like the fact that chelsea had clearly practised exactly what we had spoke about before. she had improved her eyebrow blocking both technique and timing and in general clearly had a better understanding of my design than last time. In this photo in comparison to her practice you can see more drastic change in skin tone from the forehead to the chin which is more what i was aiming for last time.

on the day I brought this face chart and had annotated it with small comments that i knew would help chelsea specifically such as to make sure you could see a much stronger white line than last time and to remember to clean up the lips.

this photo i actually quickly took myself just to see how she had done on the neck and it turned out to be one of my favourite photos taken on the day of the assessment as it brings out the concept of the design much more. the way the women plastered on the thick white paint in elizabethan times is represented beautifully and the shock red lips stand out in amazing contrast to the rest of the face.

who are the new elizabethans

During this project we have looked a lot at how the elizabethans have effected our society and influenced so many people and yet i haven't even recognised that we are all in fact the new elizabethans. after all we are all born under queen elizabeths reign now are we not? and yet as part of the project we have been tested agin by the question who are the new elizabethans. Now this question stunted me not because i found it difficult to thick of people that could come under this category but because i had too many. our world is filled with iconic people that could come under this new elizabethans title.

luckily for me my options were narrowed down when we were provided with the telegraphs proposed top  60 'new Elizabethans' to choose from. when looking down the list I found myself more obliged to look at the women. which made me think will this elizabethan era be remembered in the way the first was, ruled by a woman and very much remembered for a strong empowered women. Either way weather it will or won't I do believe that from this list the true new elizabethan is a woman, Dame Vivienne Westwood.

Coming in at number 37 is my choice. Vivienne Westwood represents everything british to me. to begin with she is a renowned fashion designer and icon spreading her visions and unique ideas across Britain and british film and run ways. This is the most obvious thing she is known for of course. but on top of this vivienne Westwood uses her well known name and celebrity status for the best and attends rallies. Westwood has been very charitable in her career and even if it is political if it is something she feels passionately about she is all for spreading her views towards the british public.

Elizabethan Movies research

As Queen Elizabeth the first was such a huge iconic figure of her era and ours its not hugely surprising that her image has been recreated many times in films and TV series throughout the years. her look has been recreated many times and for actresses and make-up and hair artists a like its a great honour in participating in creating her looks. because of the huge pressure that comes with daring to recreate her image actresses have gone to great lengths to make sure they have made the statement and got into her character. things that actresses have done to become more like Elizabeth her self include shaving their eyebrows and shaving their hair line back swell in order t have the elongated face and long forehead that was so popular at the time.

Elizabeth- 1997

makeup and hair designer- jenny shircore

makeup and hair artist- anita burger

The Virgin Queen -1955

perc westmore was the makeup artist

helen turpin- hair artist

Elizabeth R (1971 TVseries)

dawn alcock was makeup artist

2005 mini series elizabeth 1

makeup designer's - Fae Hammond, Sue Westwood and Jemma Richards 

Jane Hope Kavanagh - hair and makeup artist

shakespeare in love 1998-

lisa westcott was the hair and makeup designer

veronica brebner was the senior hair and makeup artist.

2005 tv series the virgin queen -

karen hartley tomas makeup designer

laura schiavo makeup artist

First practice.

Overall I feel confident that chelsea will be able to confidently represent my design on my face well. I think that the practice has made her more confident and that once she has practiced blocking eyebrows for speed and shaping the lips more precisely she will be able to show her  skills and techniques clearly through my design.

Chelsea practicing my Design

As we had found practicing Chelsea's design so helpful we also did it so she could practice my design on me. As we began talking through my design i realised that chelsea seemed a bit daunted by the way I had phrased my step by step, which was good to know in advance so i could rephrase it more simply for her by the time we came to the real assessment.

Chelsea was very good at blocking eyebrows but we did note that it took her quite a while to conceal them. Chelsea assured me that this would be a point she would practice at home to improve her speed. the application of blending from light to dark went smoothly in terms of no obvious lines but it wasn't exaggerated enough so we noted to go for darker colours and lighter at the bottom next time we did it. Admittedly the most daunting part of the design is the white dribble down the neck which i think she felt well with. although another note to my own design was to use the Illamasqua white foundation rather than the primer as the primer was fair to watery so didn't fit the consistency of my design.

Practicing Chelseas Contemporary Elizabethan Design

To pre-pair for the real timed assessment me and chelsea decided to do a timed practice run through of her design. this way I had a chance to use some of the products she had chosen and brought herself as well. This was useful as i didn't know what texture they would be and how it would come out when i began application to her skin type.

from this practice run me and chelsea spoke and got some notes for improvement in order to produce a final look that more accurately represented her design. In the timed assessment i will now know to use less white foundation so there is less product visible on the skin and a darker more desired skin tone. 

when blocking the eyebrows press the soap harder into the hair and onto the skin so they don't crack. when applying the silver eye shadow onto the brows and along the brow bone create a heart shape by using a angular brush. bring cotton buds to blend the blocking eyebrows and to clean any mistakes accurately. 

My Contemorary make-up design

My make up design :

Products and Materials Needed:

Cleansing :

·      Cleanser

·      Toner

·      Moisturizer

·      Cotton pads

·      Cotton buds

Eye Brow Blocking:

·      Soap

·      Bowl

·      Water

·      Spatula/ wooden stick

·      Sponge (applicator for stippling product over the top

·      Illamasqua powder

Make-up Application:

·      Charles Fox Sponge

·      Make-up brushes

·      White base foundation ( Illamasqua)

·      MAC studio fix foundation

·      Kryolan foundations

·      L’oreal Nude Magique Eau De Teint

·      Illamasqua powder

·      Kryolan blusher

·      MAC Ruby woo lip pencil

·      MAC lip mix red pigment

·      MAC Ruby woo lipglass

·      Sugarpill Tako eye shadow

·      Illamasqua libido cream blusher

·      Benefit birthday suit cream eyeshadow

                   CONTEMORARAY ELIZABETHAN MAKE-UP – METHOD

1.     Cleanse tone and moisturize the face to prepare for application. (5-10 minutes)

2.     Block the eyebrows using soap and spatula tool. Make sure the soap is wet. Apply 3/4/5 layers and then powder once slightly dry to keep it in place. (10 minutes)

3.     Apply a light foundation with the white base foundation from Illamasqua. Apply this over the eyebrows by lightly stippling the product on with a sponge. (5minutes)

4.     Use the same light foundation mixing with the white skin base all over the face neck and ears  - REMEMBER EARS! – Use a foundation brush and buff it into the skin. (5-10 minutes)

5.     Powder all of the face, ears and neck well. (1 minute)

6.     Now use the white foundation and mix it with some of the same light foundation to create a lighter tone blend this from the jawline to the height of the bottom lip.

7.     Then take the mac foundation and apply to the forehead blending down to the eyebrows into the paler complection. This should make the face tanned to pale blended from forehead to jawline.  Make sure it’s even!

8.     Use the l’oreal foundation to contour the shadows of the face, corners of the hairline, and cheekbones.

9.     Powder the rest of the face (1 minute)

10. Apply bronzer to the concaves of the cheeks and along the nose and blend in and sugarpill tako on the highlights of the cheekbones and nose.

11. Apply benefit birthday suit cream eyeshadow from where the eyebrow meets the nose through the crease of the eyelid and blend well.

12. Apply Tako over the brows above the benefit and make sure there isn’t a harsh line between them.

13. Powder all over the eyes so there are no creases in the product on the eyelid. (1 minute or less)

14. Line the lips with MAC ruby woo pencil.

15. Use an angled lip brush to fill in all the lips (MAC red pigment)(5 minutes)

16. In the middle of the lips apply MAC ruby woo lipglass and blend it outwards. (2 minutes)

17.  Contour the color bones with Illamasqua libido cream blusher

18. Ask client to tilt head back and apply white Illamasqua foundation across the jawline pushing the drops down with the back of a make-up brush.

BLOCKING EYEBROWS

Learning How To Block Eyebrows:

Standard health and safety procedures apply when blocking eyebrows. To start with you must look respectable, clean and smart. preferably all in black. Hair tied back. no jewellery and clean hands are always important.

Products and Materials Needed:

Model Prep:
Fill out a consultation from before performing anything.
Two metal clips to keep the hair out of the models face.
Wrap from hair kit to protect clothing.
Ask if they have contact lenses in as you will be working in the eye area.

Cleansing:
-cleanser
-toner
-Moisturiser
-Cotton pads
-Cotton buds

Eye Brow Blocking:
-soap / unscented soap if required
-glue
-bowl
-water
-spatula/ wooden stick/ angled brush
- eye brow brush
-supra colour pallet
-sponge/ applicator
-Illamasqua powder

Method:
1. Make a lather of soap and water by using a spatula to scoop the soap in fine layers onto the back of your hand. Manipulate it and mold it over and over with the spatula until it is smoot and there is no lumps of soap in it at all.
2. Brush eyebrows so the hair is up and against the skin, flat and smooth.
3. run the soap back and forth through the hair coating the entire surface that has hair on it. do this numerous times until you can no longer feel the hair follicles any more under the layers of soap 
4. wait until soap sets and drys (you can use assistance from a hair dryer if you have one) powder firmly pressing the powder into any creases
5. if you want the eyebrows to completely disappear as we would for an elizabethan look use the supra colour pallet pink colour and stipple it onto the entire eye brow with a sponge/ applicator.
6. Apply a base layer of foundation matching the skin tone of the client. 
7. press powder in the creases and set this colour with a sponge
8. then chose the desired skin tone foundation and apply all over the face this may need three or four layers like the soap to properly conceal 

    

The Westmore family

The Westmore family are renowned for being hollywood make-up artists. Originally started by George Westmore in 1917 the family have followed in his footsteps, since the family has had four generations serve holly wood as make-up artist.

Hollywood has been graced in many movies by many Westmores, and many iconic images known today have been the product of their work. We are lucky enough today to be able to purchase books written by the west more brothers published in the 40's giving expert beauty advice and vintage hair styles.

some of the achievements the westmore family have accomplished over the years:

• The oldest brother Monte worked at Selznick International where before his death of a fatal heart attack he did an enormous amount of work on "gone with the wind"
• Perc worked for over 27 years initiating beauty trends and disguise's at First National-Warner Bros. His work includes the faces of Charles Laughton's grotesque "Hunchback Of Notre Dame" and Bette Davis' eyebrowless, practically bald and white faced in "The Private Lives of Elizabeth  and Essex".

TIMED ASSESSMENT - IN THE ROLE OF THE MAKE-UP ARTIST

Chelsea's Elizabethan Design Method

Products and Materials Needed:

Cleansing :

·      Cleanser

·      Toner

·      Moisturizer

·      Cotton pads

·      Cotton buds

    Eye Brow Blocking:

·      Soap

·      Bowl

·      Water

·      Spatula/ wooden stick

·      Sponge (applicator for stippling product over the top

·      Illamasqua powder

    Make-up Application:

·      Charles Fox Sponge

·      Make-up brushes

·      White base foundation ( Illamasqua)

·      Kryolan foundations

·      Kryolan camoflauge pallet

·      Illamasqua powder

·      Kryolan blusher

·      Rimmel London lipstick (‘coffee shimmer’)

·      Silver/ White/ Gold ‘Bellapierre’ glitters

·      Colour stay (Bellapierre)

·      Clear eye liner base (Bellapierre)

·      Mascara wands

CONTEMORARAY ELIZABETHAN MAKE-UP – METHOD

1.     Cleanse tone and moisturize the face to prepare for application. (5-10 minutes)

2.     Block the eyebrows using soap and spatula tool. Make sure the soap is wet. Apply 3/4/5 layers and then powder once slightly dry to keep it in place. (10 minutes)

3.     Apply a light foundation with the white base foundation from Illamasqua. Apply this over the eyebrows by lightly stippling the product on with a sponge. (5minutes)

4.     Use the same light foundation mixing with the white skin base all over the face neck and ears  - REMEMBER EARS! – Use a foundation brush and buff it into the skin. (5-10 minutes)

5.     Powder all of the face, ears and neck well. (1 minute)

6.     Contour the face with the camoflauge pallet  (HIGHLIGHT: cheek bones, brow bone, forehead, on the bow of the lip, bridge of the nose.) (CONTOUR: under the lip, end of the nose, temples, jaw line) blend the contouring of the face well but make sure it is still visible (10 minutes)

7.     Powder the rest of the face (1 minute)

8.     Apply blusher from the apples if the cheeks, upwards to the top of the ear, blend into the skin.

9.     Use an angled lip brush to fill in all the lips (Rimmel London coffee shimmer) apart from the center of the bottom lip (5 minutes)

10. In the middle of the lips apply silver (from the kryolan rainbow circle) and blend it outwards. This will give an ombre effect. (5 minutes)

11. Using the rainbow circle, apply silver all over the eyelids, up over the eyebrows. Take the silver slightly under the eye for a highlighted effect. Using the silver create a blended heart shape from brow to brow – (5-10 minutes)

12. Powder all over the eyes so there are no creases in the product on the eyelid. (1 minute or less)

13. Apply the gold product from the rainbow over both eye lids and blend outwards (5 minutes)

14.  Powder over both eyes again (less than a minute)

15. Using the darker gold from the rainbow wheel, use a fine brush to create a line on the crease of the eye lid and blend out (5 minutes)

16. Powder both lids again (less than a minute)

17. Using the clear eyeliner base product, dip it into the bellapierre gold glitter, and apply as close as possible to the upper lash line and the outer edge of the lower lashes (3 minutes)

18. On the lips apply some colour stay product by bellapierre onto the center of the lip where the silver is, and then press some gold and silver glitter on with your finger. (3 minutes)

19. Using the mascara wand and the rainbow dip the wand into the white/silver and apply to top and bottom lashes (5 minutes)

20. Once the make-up has been retouched and any areas needing more attention have been attended to you can the put the head chain on. Ensure the head chain is sitting right in the center of the head. (3 minutes)