Elizabethan and Contemporary Portraiture

My Chosen Elizabethan Portrait

My Chosen Contemporary Enterpritation

Doe Deere suggesting wealth

Okay so I have to admit when we were asked to find modern portraiture that suggested wealth the same way elizabethan paintings did i may have had a few things in mind already. A bit of an obsession of mine is the amazing Doe deere the woman is the owner and founder of lime crime make-up and has taken part in far too many amazing shots for my eyes to fixate on for months at a time. long story short she is amazing. admittedly there are far more subtle recreations of the wealth shown in elizabethan portraiture today, but doe deere does do it best. 

THE RUSSIAN ROYALTY EDITORIAL 

STYLING AND DRESS BY LEONID GUREVICH

PHOTOS BY BIANCA ALEXIS

HAIR BY KRISTIN JACKSON

MODELING, MAKEUP BY DOE DEERE

Although it is very clear not only by the name of the editorial but by her attire that the photos are to resemble royalty it is the smaller representations that draw me to it. Like the bright pigmented red on her lips which were such a sign of wealth within the elizabethan era.

MADONNA EDITORIAL

 PUBLISHED IN GLASSBOOK, LE BOOK (ISSUE FIVE)

PHOTOS BYJESON SETIAWAN

STYLED BY LEONID GUREVICH

FEATURING DOE DEERE

ICE QUEEN EDITORIAL 

HARLOW MAGAZINE
STYLED BY LEONID GUREVICH
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE PRUE
HAIR BY NUMI EMPIRE
MAKEUP BY ANA LUCCA USING LIME CRIME

FEATURING DOE DEERE

Digital Image

Test Shoot

This shoot began by us collecting images of a colour that we chose ourselves, these images are the base of inspiration for a mono-coloured shoot. once we have chose one colour and made a mood bored for that we then have to decide what mood that colour reflects and then reflect that mood in that colour into a make-up and fashion shoot.

I chose the colour lilac which I see as a fragile colour. I tried to represent this mood in the makeup by doing un-symetrical light blended contouring. I took away harsh features of the face like the eyebrows and didn't line the lips.

we had to choose two close ups and one mid shot. I am reasonably happy with my photos and make-up and hair. I have already thought of ways to improve it for my final shoot. to start with i think to collaborate better with the mood i should lighten or loose the contouring on the nose. i should mix some Illamasqua white foundation in with my lime crime d'lilca lipstick to create a lighter lip. finally to create a more 'fragile look' i am cutting the band off of the top to create a looser lest constricted look.

Elizabeth in Portraiture

Elizabeth

who she really was:

5ft 4  as tall as guys – a model like frame 

skin blemished by small pox and burned by lead oxide make-up

teeth blacked by decay

halitosis

alopecia

As the Queen Elizabeth's popularity grew she had more portraits painted of her, similarly to our celebrity's being photographed more the more famous they are. As anyone with a reputation to up hold would be, queen Elizabeth was very conscious of how her people would conceive her. Due to this concern she would only let artists represent her regal position and statue.

 The style of the paintings have changed through her years as the artists themselves can make much more elaborate paintings. Often when people see portraits of Elizabeth they assume they are all of a large scale, when in fact those of a noble status may have smaller pairings that they could carry around or adorn themselves with to show their loyalty. Elizabeth would rather have her younger portraits shown as youth is a desirable characteristic.

STATUS SYMBOLISM 

IN ELIZABETHS PORTRAITURE

  

THE ARMADA PORTRAIT

1.1558, painted by the artist George Gower in Oil paint.


•   Her hand is on a globe and her fingers are touching over the south America, source of Spain's gold, showing her imperial ambitions.

•   The paintings to her left and right symbolise the Spanish armada.

•   The pearls are a symbol of purity, the quantity of pearls show her wealth.

•   The pearl necklace was given to her by Dudley and it was said to be the last thing he gave to her.

THE RAINBOW PORTRAIT

•   The gown is embroidered with English flowers, The tudor rose was used in elizabeths portraits to renforce the fact that she was  a vergin queen

•   Her cloak is decorated with eyes and ears – just like in Elizabeth the film as its on her bed lace – showing that she sees and hears everything

•   On her arm she has a large serpent with a large heart shaped ruby in its mouth- the serpent representing wisdom and the ruby her heart saying that her heart is ruled by her wisdom.

•   She is in her late 60’s in this portrait but she is still portrayed as young and beautiful and AGELESS.

•   The rainbow symbolises peace, with the old latin motto- non sine sole iris which means no rainbow without the sun

THE PELICAN PORTRAIT 1575-

•   Painted by her favourite painter

•   She includes the pearls again symbolising her purity

•   The pelican is representative. In the tudor times they thought that the pelicans would pluck there own feathers to feed their infants even though it was actually a mistake when the pelicans were in fact just grooming. However Elizabeth took on the traits of the pelicans and uses this as a symbol to say that she has the motherly love over England and that she will sacrifice her self for her country.

•   She wears the colours she usually seen wearing black, whit, red or gold.  The colours she is wearing. Red comes from Spain and are restricted for only the wealthiest to wear. She would wear black a lot because black is very fashionable amongst the elite.

•   The white shirt she is wearing is embroidered with black lace and its called black work, and in this specific shirt is embroidered with English roses.

THE PHOENIX PORTRAIT-  1572-

•   A lot of the symbolisism in this is referring to her virginity and uniqueness.

•   This portrait is the last chance of selling her self as marragable

THE ERMINE PORTRAIT – 1585

•   The ermine represents royalty.- Only certain people were aloud to wear earmin.

•   She is wearing the three brothers jewels, which is one of her favourite jewels

•   In the corner there is a sawd to symbolize justice  and although she is peaceful she is able to defend her title if needed

•   But then there is a olive branch in the corner to represent peace.

 THE BOOK PORTRAIT-

•   She’s in red again.

•   she loves her hands so much she would often hold a book or another object to attract attention.

•   The catholic and protestants are fighting at the time and she is holding a protestant book and her finger is inside it showing her faith.

Applying Base Foundation

Basic Make-up Technique

Today I did applying base foundation followed by extreme contour. For the base foundation and basic contouring my model was Daniella. I began by removing her make-up and doing a cleanse tone and moisturise. 

Daniella with make-up removed,
prepped for reapplication. 

 After removing Daniella's make-up I did a consultation with her and found that she has no allergies and a pink undertone in her complexion along with other things. This was helpful to me so that I knew how to treat her skin, and automatically knew to use a yellow base to remove the pink in her skin. Mixing the foundations to match Daniella's skin tone proved to be more difficult than anticipated, but by applying it to her jaw line onto her neck I could clearly see when and how i was going wrong. too light then too dark, it was easy to even out and I'm happy that the colour i finished with was her correct skin tone. After the base i used a shade lighter to conceal/ highlight under her eyes, her chin, her nose and her forehead.  I then used another cream based product in darker shades under her cheek bones to emphases her bone structure.

I used minimal amounts of translucent powder so that i wouldn't be putting powder onto a sticky surface. To finish the look I used bronzers, blushers and highlighting powder to go over the lighter and darker areas i have already created and give them more depth and blend it into the facial structure better. overall i am happy with my outcome for a beauty makeup base. this gives me confidence as all makeup has to begin with a good base, so hopefully it will help me progress quickly through the course of the makeup unit. 

Extreme Contour:

Extreme contouring doesn't have as many set rules as I had expected. this is probably due to the fact that every client has a different bone structure. contouring comes from the anatomy and bone structure of the face. to contour creatively and effectively you must consider this individually to each client. to contour effectively to each persons face you need to look at the convex and concave's of each face.

 In our demonstration we were shown a extreme contour on a white base foundation with dark tones and powders for the contouring. this quite literally taught us the black and white basics so we could create our own interpretations in different colours.

Our Interpretation...

Daniella used me as her model and chose to use blacks browns and purples. she worked well with a lot of different products making sure she used both cream based and powder based contouring and highlighting. i thought she was very creative with the way she used products for more than one use, using the same eye shadow for both my eyelids and the lips.